In the small hill towns east of Palermo — places like Ciminna, Villafrati and Baucina — cuddiruni is more than a focaccia. It’s a story told through dough, tomatoes and cheese, a reminder of the days when families baked bread in communal ovens and used leftover dough to create this humble but deeply comforting dish.

Sitting somewhere between a pizza and the famous Palermo sfincione, this rustic focaccia is traditionally made with semolina flour, giving it a golden, slightly nutty flavour. The best-loved version is the “red” one: a generous layer of tomato sauce crowned with spring onions, anchovies and plenty of Sicilian pecorino — a combination that fills the kitchen with aromas as warm as a Sicilian summer night.

Served hot, cuddiruni is both simple and celebratory. It’s perfect for sharing at a summer gathering, or as a companion to a glass of robust Nero d’Avola while watching the sun set behind the hills.